Starting a clothing line involves countless moving parts. Beginning with a great foundation and high-quality materials can set you apart from other fashion brands.
For many fashion designers, sourcing fabric is the first step of the design process. The next step is designing garments around that fabric. Choosing the right materials for your products can impact your sales and customer satisfaction—no one wants a scratchy t-shirt or pants that shrink in the wash.
Ahead, you’ll learn how to source the right fabrics in a few steps, the different types of fashion fabrics and suppliers, and the questions to ask when choosing suppliers for your clothing line.
What is fabric sourcing?
Fabric sourcing is finding a supplier who produces the fabric you need and managing the supply chain and delivery to get the required goods on time, within budget, and without any damage.
How to source fabric in 3 steps
- Learn the basics of fabric construction.
- Understand the different types of fabric suppliers.
- Visit trade shows and source fabric online.
1. Learn the basics of fabric construction
Understanding how fabric is constructed and which fabric type is best for your product is a crucial step in the design process.
While fabric can be constructed in many ways, two commonly used fabric construction types are knitted and woven.
Knitted fabric
Knitted fabrics are usually lightweight and comfortable and don’t require much care to maintain their appearance. Knitted fabrics tend to resist wrinkles, making them a popular fabric choice. They are used when designing soft, comfortable tops, bottoms, and undergarments. Their elastic nature also works well for activewear.
Today, knitted fabrics are available in various fibers, such as linen, silk, wool, Tencel, polyester, cotton, and cotton blends.
There are two fundamental ways you can make knits:
- A weft knit or hand-knitted fabric with a single yarn that’s looped to create horizontal rows, where each row gets built on the previous row
- A warp knit with multiple parallel yarns that are simultaneously looped vertically to form the fabric
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Woven fabric
Woven fabrics use two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles to one another. They’re constructed on a machine called a handloom or power loom.
Frequent characteristics of woven fabrics are opacity, abrasion resistance, and pill resistance. The higher the thread count, the higher the quality and strength. Uses for wovens include denim and formal pants, button-down shirts, and jackets.
Two classifications of woven fabrics are:
- Basic or simple weaves, which include plain weaves, twill weaves, and satin weaves
- Complex or novelty weaves, which include dobby weaves, jacquard weaves, and piques (like a men’s polo t-shirt)
2. Understand the different types of fabric suppliers
Finding reliable fabric suppliers is a critical step in starting a clothing line. It’s best to find partners that can guarantee the stock you need and on-time delivery.
There are three types of fabric and textile suppliers, each defined based on how they operate and what kind of fabric they stock:
- Fabric mills provide made-to-offer fabrics and often have substantial minimum order requirements (MOQs).
- Converters purchase unfinished or greige goods from the fabric mill. Then, they finish the fabric by dying, printing, or washing the goods before they sell them to you.
- Jobbers typically carry a limited stock of fabric left over from converters and mills. They may sell it at reduced prices and don’t usually restock a fabric, color, or print once they sell out. Take caution with this type of fabric supplier, as you may not be able to order the same fabric twice.
3. Visit trade shows and source fabric online
Sourcing fabric in person at fabric trade shows allows you to see and touch the materials. You can also find fabric suppliers online and order fabric hangers (a.k.a. swatches or samples) to review at your studio or office. Depending on the fabric mill, they may charge you a fee, usually around $5 to $10 for each fabric hanger.
Source your fabric at trade shows
Fabric trade shows can be overwhelming. Rows and rows of supplier booths, sometimes hundreds, are a lot to look through in a few hours.
Research the exhibiting fabric mills before the trade show and list your top 10. Don’t forget to leave yourself a few extra minutes, just in case you discover fabric and textile suppliers you didn’t find during your online search.
Here are two fabric trade shows to start with:
- The Fabric Shows is great for small quantity fabric orders. Many of the fabric suppliers that exhibit are based in the US or have showrooms in the US.
- Texworld is a significant trade show with lots of exhibitors. Many of the fabric suppliers that exhibit at Texworld have mills overseas in China, India, and elsewhere.
👉 Here’s a list of textile trade shows in the US in chronological order.
Source your fabric online
If you can’t make it to a fabric trade show, searching trade show websites for fabric and textile suppliers that meet your criteria is the next best option.
These days, many suppliers, if not all, have a fabric catalog on their website—like Mood Fabrics and Fabric Wholesale Direct, for example. You can peruse these at your leisure and then request fabric headers (sometimes called hangers) to review in the comfort of your office or home.
You can also check out marketplace platforms that connect clothing businesses with fabric suppliers. This often makes it easier to compare your options.
Here are a couple of platforms to check out:
- Alibaba lets you connect with tons of global fabric and textile suppliers for everything from wool to sequins, silk, and bamboo.
- Fairelists offers from over 100,000 wholesale brands, including many fabric and textile suppliers.
10 questions to ask fabric suppliers
Many brands create a spec sheet template that lists specific information about each fabric quality. Sometimes, the fabric manufacturer may already have a spec sheet they can share with you.
Here are 10 questions to ask fabric suppliers while sourcing fabric for your clothing line.
1. What is the fabric article or item number?
Fabric manufacturers create article or item numbers for each fabric quality they sell. The fabric article number is usually found on the fabric hangers. Take note of this number, as you’ll need it when you order the sample and bulk fabric yardage.
2. What is the fabric weight?
It’s important to consider the fabric weight of each garment you design. You probably won’t use the same fabric weight for every product in your collection.
Often, bottoms use a heavier-weight fabric than tops, for example. However, it depends on each garment and how you want the fabric to drape or lay over the wearer’s body.
Fabric weight is listed in grams per square meter (GSM or GR/M2). Below are a few examples of fabric weights used for different knit garments.
- Activewear leggings and sports bras are about 200 GSM to 300 GSM
- Lounge pants are about 180 GSM to 250 GSM
- Standard t-shirts are about 130 GSM to 180 GSM
- Lightweight t-shirts are about 130 GSM and less
💡 Note: These fabric weights are rough guidelines. The fabric weight you choose may vary for your clothing line.
3. What is the fabric content?
Fabric content refers to the makeup of the fibers that are used to knit or weave the fabric. Commonly used fibers are rayon, cotton, polyester, and silk.
4. What is the fabric construction?
Fabric construction involves the conversion of yarns and sometimes fibers into a piece of fabric that is then used to make an end product.
Fabric characteristics are determined by the materials and methods used to construct the fabric. Most fabric production uses interlacing methods, such as weaving or knitting.
5. What’s the fabric width (total and cuttable)?
Fabric width measures the fabric roll width from edge to edge. Fabric suppliers will provide you with two measurement points—if they don’t, ask for it.
Two measurements to consider are the total width and the cuttable width. The edges of the fabric can be skewed or damaged during production and transportation, so it’s best to refer to the cuttable width for a more precise measurement of fabric that is usable.
6. How much does the fabric cost per yard/meter (sample yardage and bulk yardage)?
Depending on your target retail price for the garments you will sell to consumers, and the fabric yield for each garment, you can determine your target fabric price per yard or meter for each fabric. Remember this target price when sourcing new materials to ensure you’re within your budget.
Typically, fabric pricing per yard or meter can change yearly, depending on the market and the cost of resources to make the fabric. Also, buying fabric in bulk typically costs less than purchasing sample yardage.
You can ask the wholesale fabric supplier for their sample and bulk price per yard. The cost per yard for sample fabric can be $3 to $5 more, sometimes double the bulk yardage price.
7. What is the MOQ?
MOQ refers to the minimum amount of fabric yardage you must buy per order from a supplier. In most cases, fabric mills have an MOQ for sample yardage, usually at least five yards, and a different MOQ for bulk yardage. Depending on the supplier, bulk fabric yardage MOQs vary.
For example, if a supplier requires an MOQ of 500 yards, you must purchase at least 500 yards to deal with that supplier. In some cases, the fabric supplier will allow you to order less than the MOQ by applying a surcharge to the price per yard.
You can ask if you can apply the bulk MOQ across multiple colors of the same fabric quality or if it’s per fabric, per color. Applying the MOQ across more than one color is a way to maximize your buying options if you cannot buy 500 yards of one color.
8. How long is the fabric delivery lead time?
The time between the initiation of a fabric order and the completion of a production and delivery process is the fabric delivery lead time.
Some wholesale fabric suppliers keep stock of the fabric they sell, resulting in a quick turnaround time from the moment you place your order to the delivery at your factory.
Other suppliers have delivery lead times ranging from four weeks to eight weeks. You can ask for fabric delivery lead times for samples and bulk yardage. Sample yardage often has a shorter delivery lead time.
9. Where is the country of origin?
The country of origin or COO is the country where the production of the fabric and shipping takes place. It’s important to ask for this information as it must go on the inside label of your garments, and it will also impact the cost of your fabric.
10. What are the fabric care instructions?
The recommended method for washing fabric varies for each fabric type and depends on the fabric content and construction. Manufacturers provide fabric care instructions to uphold fabric integrity over time.
Some fibers get damaged in high heat or have higher shrinkage rates than others when placed in the dryer. Other fabrics, like silk, are often dry-clean only.
Additional fabric sourcing terms defined
Like most industries, the fashion industry has its own language for sourcing and manufacturing. These terms can help you navigate fabric sourcing like a pro.
Fabric hand
Fabric hand refers to the way the fabric feels when you touch it with your hand. There are no definitive fashion industry terms for fabric hand, but commonly used words to describe fabric hand are soft, cool, dry, and silky.
Selvage
The selvage is the finished edge of the fabric. It keeps the fabric from unraveling and fraying. The salvage runs the entire length of the material.
Fabric grain
The grain line of the fabric is broken up into three options:
- Lengthwise grain (warp) refers to the threads that run parallel to the selvage.
- Crosswise grain (weft) refers to the threads that run perpendicular to the selvage or along the cut edge of the fabric.
- Bias grain is technically not a “grain.” It’s the 45-degree angle between warp and weft grains. Cutting your fabric on the bias results in more stretch and can be used anywhere you need the material to drape more smoothly over a curve.
Fabric drape
Fabric drape is one of the most important factors to consider when constructing a garment. Drape refers to how the fabric hangs or falls on the body. You can decide whether you want a dress to hug the body or hang away from the body.
Fabric hanger
A fabric hanger, also called a fabric header, serves as a sample. It’s a small fabric cutting, so buyers can see and feel the material firsthand. You can also use a swatch as a reference during the design process.
Sample yardage
Sample yardage is the fabric you order when designing and developing samples. Typically, it costs more than bulk fabric yardage that you buy for production. Most fabric suppliers require a five-yard minimum order for sample yardage.
Bulk yardage
Bulk yardage is the fabric you order after you’ve designed, developed, and approved your garments. Bulk yardage refers to the more significant quantity of fabric yardage that you buy to manufacture your products. Depending on the supplier, there may be sizable minimum order requirements, or you can order a small quantity at a higher price per yard.
Greige goods
Greige is an unfinished woven or knitted fabric in its raw state before being bleached, dyed, or printed.
Shrinkage
Shrinkage is when a piece of fabric becomes smaller than its original size, usually through laundry. Typically represented as a percentage, it’s up to you to decide your tolerance level for fabric shrinkage.
Confirming the shrinkage rate before you go to production can help you determine if you need to adjust the fit specifications of a garment to account for shrinkage.
Common challenges in fabric sourcing
Sourcing the perfect fabric can be a complex process. Here are some of the most common challenges brands face when sourcing fabric and tips to overcome them.
MOQs
MOQs can be an obstacle, particularly for smaller brands or new fashion lines. Many fabric mills require large MOQs, often exceeding production needs and budgets for cash-strapped businesses.
For smaller quantities, you should work with jobbers who specialize in selling surplus fabric at a lower MOQ. Plus, some suppliers may allow you to meet the MOQ across multiple colors of the same fabric or agree to a reduced MOQ with a price surcharge. It’s worth trying to negotiate.
Quality assurance
Making sure you use high-quality fabrics is critical to your reputation and customer satisfaction, but quality assurance is always a gamble when it comes to outsourcing, and acquiring fabric from third-party vendors is no different. Inconsistencies can happen from lots of things outside your control, including issues during manufacturing, storage, or shipping.
Always start with swatches or sample yardage to test for shrinkage, colorfastness, and other performance factors before you place a full order.
Perform wear tests and washing trials to see how the fabric holds up over time. If possible, work with a third-party lab to verify that the fabric meets your standards before production.
You can also provide suppliers with clear specifications, including the fabric’s weight, content, and care requirements. Make sure to also request a spec sheet for every order.
Supplier relationships
Building and maintaining strong relationships with suppliers is important, but it can be tricky—especially when working with international partners or during supply chain disruptions.
It’s important to maintain open and transparent communication about your needs, expectations, and timelines. When working with overseas suppliers, understanding cultural differences and business practices can foster a better working relationship.
Start with smaller orders to test their reliability before committing to larger quantities.
Strong relationships can lead to better pricing, improved lead times, and priority access to new materials. Plus, suppliers are more likely to prioritize your orders if they see the potential for an ongoing partnership.
Tips for sourcing fabric
Sourcing fabric for your clothing line is more than just finding the perfect material—it’s also about building lasting partnerships and incorporating strategies that align with your brand. Here are some tips to optimize your fabric sourcing process:
Build personal relationships with suppliers
Strong supplier relationships make a huge difference in fabric sourcing. Cultivating trust and communication with your suppliers can ensure smoother transactions and help you get better terms, pricing, or access to exclusive fabrics.
Shopify merchants can manage vendor information directly in the Shopify admin. You can track details like which vendor supplies which items, sales trends, and vendor performance, allowing you to make data-driven decisions about working with suppliers. You can even display your vendors on your online store if you want.
This is especially advantageous because Shopify unifies all your data, so you have a single source of truth for all your channels—retail, D2C, or B2B. True and effective unified commerce only happens when ecommerce and POS exist on the same platform.
Opt for sustainable fabrics
Sustainability is more than a trend—it’s a priority for many consumers. Choosing sustainable fabrics like organic cotton, bamboo, or recycled polyester aligns with eco-conscious values and can elevate your brand’s reputation.
When sourcing sustainable fabrics, look for certifications like GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) or OEKO-TEX to ensure verified ethical and eco-friendly practices. Some clothing brands even source repurposed fabric—maybe they purchase used items from thrift stores and turn them into something new, like Peppy Collective.
Highlight your commitment to sustainability through marketing, emphasizing how these choices benefit both the planet and your customers.
Visit suppliers in person when available
Whenever possible, visit your fabric suppliers in person. While virtual sourcing is convenient, in-person interactions create deeper supplier relationships. Being on-site also allows you to see the materials firsthand and confirm their quality.
You can ensure production processes meet your standards, browse fabric options not listed in online catalogs, and negotiate more effectively. Face-to-face communication often leads to better pricing or terms.
Use deadstock or surplus fabrics
Reducing waste is always a good idea, both for the environment and your bottom line. Take advantage of deadstock or surplus fabrics that are sold at a discount.
These materials are leftover inventory from other brands or mills, offering a unique opportunity to reduce waste while adding exclusivity to your line. They’re excellent for testing new ideas and categories or launching limited editions and exclusive collections.
Sourcing fabric that fits your business
Now that you have a better idea of the fabric sourcing process and commonly used terms, it’s time to visit trade shows, order samples, and look at what other comparable retailers use for their products. This should spark ideas and inspire your next collection.
Read more
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- Product Assortment: Strategies and Tips for a Winning Product Mix
- What Causes Shipping Delays? How They Impact Retailers and How to Deal With Them
- Phantom Inventory: Why It Happens + How to Spot, Solve, and Prevent It
- What Is Overstocking? 7 Causes and Effects (2024)
Fabric sourcing FAQ
What is fabric sourcing?
Fabric sourcing is finding fabric or a fabric supplier that helps you gather the best fabric options for your clothing line.
How does fabric sourcing work?
To source fabric for your clothing line, attend trade shows or look online to find the best fabric supplier to fit your needs. Then, reach out to create a partnership and add them to your supply chain so that you’ll have a steady supply of stunning fabrics.
Why is fabric sourcing important?
Fabric sourcing and ensuring you have a wide variety of fabrics available helps ensure your clothes are unique, comfortable, chic, and appealing to your target audience.
Where do fashion designers source their fabrics?
Many designers source their fabrics directly from manufacturers. They can view collections and choose the fabrics they want to use in their next line.